Anyone who knows me knows that Fall is my favorite season. I consider Fall fashion to be like the moment God breathed breathe into Adam. However, as the chilly weather moves in, it’s nice to escape the reality that winter is getting closer and instead get a glimpse into the warmth that Spring and Summer fashion will bring.
I was excited to cover this season at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which was my third, because with a few seasons under my belt I knew what to be on the look out for at Lincoln Center. What was even better about this particular season was that I had the chance to cover many debut collections of emerging designers, which is always a plus.
Among the shows I viewed, I’ve edited down the looks and collection notes to bring you a comprehensive style watch for next Spring and Summer. Read below to see what’s in store.
CZAR by Cesar Galindo
César Galindo has designed for numerous labels but this season he debuted two collections, and I was able to check out the first one, CZAR. CZAR proved to be a contemporary collection that stayed true to Galindo’s aim to design comfortable womenswear while also reflecting his Latin heritage and refined design aesthetic.
Galindo unveiled the entire color spectrum on the runway, attributing his aptitude for color to his Mexican heritage. He mixed patterns with shades of green, blue, rose, orange, purple and yellow, using gradated tones as accents. However, what was very peculiar, or shall I say distinctive, about the collection was the color palette that almost bordered on the lines of trans-seasonal; splashes of olive and pumpkin were paired with funky patterns, in a mix that echoed all four seasons.
To sum CZAR up: patterns that mirror cultural tones and colors that transition will be a trend to look out for as the snow begins to melt.
W118 by Walter Baker
Walter Baker has been designing since the year I was born, 1991. (I know I just dated myself. Yes, I am that young.) Lace, cutouts, ikat prints, florals, sorbet colors, neon colors, cage skirts and color blocking were among the big trends shown at Baker’s W118 collection.
Baker mastered and fused together mix-and-match elegance and color saturation for W118. On on side, the fusion of colors, prints and music created a Studio 54 aura that I’m quite sure we’ll see much more of in fast fashion next year. At the other end, Baker blended mod-office designs with neutral colors, creating a balance between the chic yet understated colorways and the vivid, wild patterns and colors.
The presentation also featured handbags in bright colors and jewelry (which are Baker’s latest expansion in the fashion industry) paired with SkullCandy headphones.
Of the trends Baker offered up, my favorites were the black and white diamond-patterned pants, the lace top with salmon undertones and the cage skirt that’s perfect for any mod-girl.
Noon by Noor
Designers, Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohammed Al Kalifa from Riffa, Kingdom of Bahrain, are masters of detail. (And I’m not being facetious.) The designers created their debut collection in their home, leading to the name for the line, Noon By Noor, which comes from the Arabic letter ‘N’, pronounced as ‘noon.’
The collection really impressed me, and even more because this was their first major Fashion Week effort. The classic, feminine cuts with a modern edge, the floral patterns and decadent color palettes, the on target monochromatic and metallic looks, and the silk chiffon that gave each piece a natural flow, all came together in this collection, really driving the beauty of the Al Khalifa duo’s home.
Some dresses were accented with thick beaded collars (I’m beginning to notice collar adornment has become more of a staple in fast fashion as well). Many of the gowns featured regal trains, perfect for the red carpet or an evening out. The high slit was the perfect accent to the flow of the fabric, adding a bit of elegance to the fluidity. Other designs, which blended peach, tangerine and butternut yellow, provided depth and a revival of classic silhouettes.
Noon by Noor did not disappoint.
When I think of Pamella Roland, I think of elegance, to which her design aesthetic has remained true. Her S/S 2013 collection was presented as an installation that showcased just how well Ms. DeVos can match elegance and timelessness. The collection featured clean lines and a Mad Men-esque presence, which mirrors old Hollywood glamor and the beauty of the 1950s.
The collection was inspired by the iconic American artist Ellsworth Kelly. Devos explains, “stark black and white paintings are part of a body of work that resonate in particular because of their clean almost severe lines that speak to a harmony between the shapes that they create.” Thus, it’s no surprise the Pamella Roland collection was predominated by clean lines and a black and white color palette.
For me, the collection bridged the gap between structure and femininity, which is what womenswear should do when it is crafted correctly.
Which trends are you looking forward to for next Spring and Summer?
*photos via mbfashionweek.com